Thursday, May 2, 2024
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The politics of second-hand clothes: A debate over ‘dignity’

Kigali, Rwanda - Bayingana Mark is trying on a crisp white shirt at the Biryogo market in Kigali's Nyariambo district, known for its small-scale traders selling second-hand clothes from all over the world. Mark, a trader and head of Biryogo market, tells Al Jazeera that the lull is due to a government-imposed tax on imported second-hand clothes last year. Those supportive of the Rwandan government's bullish ambition to develop local manufacturing see the decision as a boon for their trade. At least 20 percent of all used clothes in Rwanda are imported from the US. Opportunity for tailors Mukanyarwi Serafina cuts through a section of Kitenge cloth in her small tailor shop in the town of Nyamagambe in southern Rwanda. He says it was only a matter of time before everyone got used to the change. "It is a big opportunity for tailors," the 38-year-old says. While Jacque understands the demand for self-respect, he says the economy does not run on "dignity". Hundreds of workers cut fabric, check labels, operate sewing machines, and carefully monitor the "Made in Rwanda" products for quality. Originally starting out as an export-oriented manufacturing plant, mostly for clients in the US and Europe, this Chinese-owned factory has moved into producing garments for the local market.